I have in 1966,1975,1980 and 1984 for the national team climbing Mount Everest and the weather forecasting.
Mountaineering activities in the weather is a very important aspect. I inspected the mountain meteorological research achievements in the application of mountaineering activities, the production of (3 months) (10 days) short (1 day) period and the approaching (2 hours 30 minutes) weather, and made a 3 on climbing Mount Everest and the weather conditions. papers and forecasting, as a community to do something practical mountaineering.
Everest mountain climate knowledge including the start and end of the rainy season, more than 7,000 meters high, and changes in the wind at different altitudes on the ground wind speed of the changes. Everest understanding of the whole rainy season is the time to plan for Everest climbers, hikers should take to avoid the rainy season and dry season option. To understand the mountain 7,000 meters above changes in the high-altitude winds from the north climbing more important. According to China's experience mountaineer, in the Everest region climbers should choose wind speed is less than six seasons. The climatic conditions mentioned earlier is climbing Everest climbers choice meteorological basis for the season. Understanding the mountain wind on the ground is to change the timing of daily climbers.
Choice mountaineering season
Everest region north of time for the rainy season in mid-June, mid-9, with the largest rainfall from July to August. Everest region 7,000 meters above the seasonal high-altitude winds of change in the major decisions of tropical westerly jet band (also called South-westerly jet belt) changes in subtropical westerly jet with the position that there is also a windy location. According to statistics, over Everest (7000-9000 m) winds in November-December and January-March biggest, most not climb. The above two conditions, climb the peak from the northern side of Everest climbers season in late April 6 in early September to mid-10 early on the best.
Climbers timing
Statistical analysis showed that changes in surface wind speed in the mountains than in the plains, and the higher the altitude, wind speed greater change. For example, in the spring and early summer on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, elevation 4,500 meters on the ground wind speed change elevation 1,000 meters high 4.5 times, in this highly 2-6 pm local time on the evening and the morning wind speed than the average wind speed of 5.5 m / sec.
Thus speculate, at an altitude of 6,000 meters on the ground wind speed of about changes in the height of 1,000 meters above sea level 6-8 times that afternoon and evening winds of about than the wind speed at the 7.3-9.8 m / sec. For this reason, I had in 1975 proposed to the Chinese team in high elevation mountain areas should be "starting early, as early as camping." The Chinese team since 1975, "starting early, as early as camping," as one of the climbers action guidelines. In the mountain region, the Chinese team provides local time starting 2:00, 14:00 camping. Mountain climbing enthusiasts in different seasons and under different altitudes set ourselves, "starting early, as early as camping" time. In principle, the higher the altitude, time of departure and camping sooner, in spring and autumn, the winds of change more ground, as far as possible early summer wind on the ground in small, less some time earlier.
Everest mountain weather phenomenon
Everest mountain activities, in addition to the very important climate knowledge, some understanding of Everest mountain weather knowledge is necessary. Master these weather knowledge, in addition to contributing mountaineering activities, we will also learn the colorful meteorological knowledge.
Glacier Wind
This is the Everest north of unusual weather phenomenon. In general mountains, often prevailed on significant changes in the valley wind. In one night, and on the mountain turn a mountain valley phenomenon called wind. Generally, the mountain is known as the Valley Wind, air flows from the valley to the hillside; The mountain is known as the mountain air flow from the slope to the valley. Formation of the valley wind is the main reason for the valley and the valley surface solar radiation in the atmosphere receive a different capacity on a hillside and valley air temperature with height chien temperature differences. Generally speaking, after noon to midnight local time before the mountain, the other time for Valley Wind.
Everest in the north, at an altitude of 5300-7000 meters for the main ice surface, the ice surface after sunrise and the temperature remains below the valley with a high degree of atmospheric temperature, thus almost day and night under the prevailing breeze, the distribution of glaciers formed under the stiff wind also known as Glacier. Glacier Wind 2-6 in the afternoon local time when the strongest, from 1,000 meters below the average wind speed up to 10 m / s, gusts up to grade 7-8.
Changes in the river flow,
General, the mountains, river flow changes in the major decisions of glacier water, change, and glacier water on the main decisions and changes in temperature variation. Spring autumn three quarters after sunrise, when sunlight in the glacier surface, gradually melt glaciers and water into the valley, the river flow has increased. Everest flannel river flow, 67% of the water comes from melting glaciers. Therefore, Alpine river flow in the river before noon smaller, the largest afternoon to the evening.
Knowledge of weather-
In Alpine areas, cloud and the weather changes a certain relationship. Experienced climbers from the cloud of speculation in the short-term weather changes, especially in the Chu region on the northern side of mountain, Everest unique "Mark" in close contact with the weather changes.
So-called "Mark" refers to the top of Everest being generated convective "clouds", the strong high-altitude wind Fluttering on the wind, like a banner link Yuanwang peak in the special weather phenomena.
Observational Study show that the top of the mountain, "Mark" is the most Fluttering from west to east, but the weather system to special temporary, "Mark" will Fluttering from east to west.
Production from many of the top climbing Everest weather, we know, on top of the mountain, "Mark," it could be called the "world's highest leader."
First, from Everest "Drew" Fluttering direction can be judged high near the top of Mount Qomolangma (8000-9000 meters above sea level) wind; Second from "finishing" top ups and downs of the waves can be estimated size of the level of high-altitude winds.
If "Drew" Fluttering from west to east, cloud-top and smooth, and left after the Genting peak height gradually decline or cloud the top dramatic fluctuations. High-altitude westerly winds of 17 meters per second, the same day it is not advisable to 7,000 meters above mountaineering activities.
If "Drew" Fluttering from southwest to northeast, the top-fluctuations, but left after the Genting peak height gradually increased, indicating high winds of no more than 15 m / sec, the same day also at 7,000 meters above mountaineering activities. But one day after high-altitude westerly trough will come in strong winds accompanied by snow ,2-not within three days at 7,000 meters above mountaineering activities.
If "Drew" Fluttering from east to west, with easterly airstream that height, the next 1-3 days with the arrival of low pressure will be India, bringing heavy snow accompanied by small wind weather, the general should not be at 7,000 meters above mountaineering activities. However, in the northern side of Everest, climbers familiar with the terrain and the routes climber, also could use the small wind and high temperature weather, the 8,500 m mountain, because the mountain climbing from the north of the greatest threats is windy.
If the top of Everest little cloudier, there is no "Mark", but almost vertical upward cloud that altitude winds less than 15 m / s, at 7,000 meters above the desirability of mountaineering activities. If the top of the mountain near pods of high clouds that in the atmosphere near the peak of stability, not high-altitude winds, the supply of 7,400 meters above mountaineering activities.
