Great Miao Introduction
Great Miao Shan (Pomiu, Puniu, Shenshan, Celestial Peak) altitude of 5,413 meters, of the Hengduan Mountains Qiong? Mountains in Sichuan Aba County and the junction of SIGUNIANG MOUNTAIN Wenchuan County in the scenic area, and to look SIGUNIANG MOUNTAIN furrow is a difficult high-altitude climbing skills type of peaks belonging to the rock wall climbing.
Climbing history
1980, the United States tried to climb the mountain for the first
3-9 October 1982, Edwards Ville by the manager, the famous Yosemite climbing pioneer Allen dozen climbing as captain (Ailikebaoman team, Bierlaer, Pitefute, Buluokewa Geshidafu, Bob Schneider), a small team 6 top people from the southwest wall, from the C1 4,785 meters to the top camp with about eight hours, the overall difficulty of the road to 5.10c, their record is 5,334 meters high.
August 5, 1985, the United States AAC Member Keith Brown single from the new Great MIAO Feng southeast ridge route top with a rope from the 28, records for 5,700 meters high, down from Dongbi unable to climb down, spent three days.
1997, Americans Jeff Hollenbaugh, Mike Pennings wall by the Great Southwest MIAO Feng top line (10pitch overall difficulty 5.9), high records for 5,413 meters.
October 2004, the Chinese mountaineering enthusiasts Wang, Graduate Wang Zhuo, the first attempt to climb the five people reached 4,600 meters.
Team composed of
Liu Jiang Qiu men
Major sponsors
Liu men: Wire (Beijing extreme experience), MAD ROCK, PETZL, BEAL
Qiu - xiang: BLACK DIAMOND, FIVE TEN
Team: KAILAS
Summing up the first climb(July 5 -7, 18)
(Author:-M) on July 5: When we finally all the Equipment sent from all over, including our last climb, Storage Huashan friends home equipment, the company also sent PETZL equipment, the most important thing is our food climbing Powerbar.
July 6: pm starting from Guilin, Liuzhou rushed to the Chengdu.
July 8: 10:00 arrived around Chengdu, Chengdu overcast sky, cool anomaly. Chinese youth living View Hotel, next to believers. Here understand the three Austrian Snow collaborative team Sura. Afternoon purchased five cylinders, two moisture-resistant foam pads, two 80-base bag with some lime and convenience foods, but can not buy camping everywhere bag. Very evening showers - for a while rainstorm.
July 9: Chengdu, overcast with light rain. Sura brought some Chengdu climbing, mountaineering friends: Wang Jun, the Po, of the subfamily, Wang promised to help us solve camping bags.
July 10: 3 pm Wang brought camping bag, the two REI GORETEX fabrics, a BackpackERS, we left the campsite REI bag. Liu Yong has just recently come back from the field, in concept, to see him, and he promised to the championships two days later.
July 11: overcast sky. As early as about 1000, we did not catch up to the bus stop cars. All the Equipment and people have returned to the Chinese concept of hotels to rest day.
July 12: overcast sky, small showers. At about 7:00 this evening on Long live Lu Sansao home, live here 30 yuan per person per day. Stubbs, Han 3000, the temperature around 18 degrees, here see snowy mountains.
July 13: am good weather, we decided Hill advanced reconnaissance lines, adaptive training can be done at the same time. Before traveling to Lamasi from Lamasi foot about four hours to finally Lianghekou after a riverside Great Miao uplink ditch after a bullpen - nuipengzi, more than one hour after the close of the groove fast cornering, 14:00, looked to rain, then return.
July 14: We get up 4:00, the heavens. Three dorsal husband, three horses, we first horse to Lianghekou and then walk two hours after the arrival of the Great Miao bottom of the bullpen, elevation 3,600 meters. Groove can be seen just to the right of the Great Miao steeple again grassland along the steep, upward along the hidden valley, the 4,000 meters final, in a relatively flat stage of the camp, a wizard left guard headquarters. Pm until midnight has been moderate rain, Qiu - xiang suffering from headaches of the plateau, I symptom of insomnia!
July 15: We set up the base camp to the 4,150-meter start line near the 4,200 meters climbing, rose 5 of the Rock after the first two fixed routes to justice. Afternoon and evening rain, late at night the stars for air.
July 16: 5:00 fog enveloped the sky around, 6:00 dawn, as the sun scattered a mist. After breakfast we have Sleeping bags, camping bags, some Equipment and food or stuffed into a large bag of 70, with another two 8.1 mm 60-meter-long stem BEAL started climbing rope. Along the road to justice Backpack rose 2 Pitch, climbing two Pitch reached yesterday, rising to a Pitch, arrived Pass, this time to stop crossing the rock wall in front of the main peak, seemed not very high, the standard Slab line, the 50-meter-long lines only to find almost three - Guarding points, although not climbing the Slab received a similar line, but imagine the feeling easy, after all, need is balance.
After a Pitch to a small relief to Taiwan, 4,600 meters above sea level, we are prepared to camp here, I do not care to fall to a sleeping bag, so I made a program: I only spent camping bag camping, if Ting tomorrow, or rather, I could no longer tolerate the first Qiu - xiang we incredible pain. The program was accepted, the weather early on, only about 3:00, still no rain down, I propose to endure their time here than go back after climbing two camping, perhaps above can be more clear on our lines, it is proposed again and passed away Sleeping bags and then re-started climbing . Rose had two Pitch us Che's camp, and overnight cold, hunger, accompanied humid. Late at night fine.
July 17: As early as 5:00, not illuminating days, the sky is the mist shrouded. We bestowed on the damp, cold, hunger and mist had also started to climb. Up to yesterday visited the place to see the peak, 4,700 meters above sea level here. Also difficult by the two Pitch, as the sun finally over, we simply took off his wet shoes fully enjoy the sunshine, we know that this has not reached its peak, but I will try to convince themselves and Qiu - xiang climb to the high point. Also, the two Pitch, at the height of 4,900 meters, the main peak in the immediate line has not steep, but not upward, the time has elapsed at noon in the rain before we return to the base camp, otherwise the overnight rain drenched again, I do not know whether they still had under Hill.
Incredible start, when we see two people along the road to justice and fixed-cone fight and protect the station up to the line, Liu Yong and the other is a friend of Chengdu. In our camp after merging with them, we continue to viewers, they continue to climb. The countdown to withdraw a third Pitch, the Rolling Stones have drawn above, smashing in my left side, we unconscious near the rock wall, before a sudden, two teams with an immature climbing the rock wall line is how dangerous!
Fortunately evacuated under security headquarters, I have been Sleeping bags a day earlier returned home, but has been soaked, sun is what big brother. Qiu - xiang do not want to stay home, just returned nuipengzi roast roast moist body, and left us with Equipment, camping equipment and only brought back to the foot of the tent bullpen.
July 18: weather, as always, we returned to the championships.
Summing up the second climb(August 22 -8, 30)
The first climb back to August 15 starting around, but we have to wait for KAILAS sponsored by the GORE TEX fabric bag camping and climbing with waterproof clothing, intends to proceed on the 20th, but we have train tickets only when found are catching up with the peak period, only on the 21st the Deluxe Soft Sleeper Soft votes, we still undecided whether the Deluxe Soft Sleeper Soft within minutes, on the 21st of the vote has not, we set a hurry on No. 22.
August 24 at Chengdu, the last draw lessons directly to the station the next day to buy the long-distance championships, with the evening of live Chinese youth hostel.
August 25 is intended to taxi to the bus station tea mats, the boss of China Sim told us in the Great Miao Sura. The day-long car blocking the way of 6,7 hours, not stopping drivers in Wolong away.
August 26: 10:00 am to championships, cloudy day with light rain championships, said Liu Yong and listen Sansao Sura with their 28 Sunrise Hill, has been growing for 20 days in the rain, I already started the psychological doubt we climb the chances of success, psychological cooler cool!
August 27: 3:00 around nearing the ditch cornering, and we Sura and Liu Yong them to the event, Liu Yong, said: "Our headquarters in Great MIAO Hai son of the high ground along the ridge line, namely basically SOLO forward, the foot has been in the rain , the mountain is blizzards, carried out later lost consciousness, I only went to 4900 meters, another big toe of the frostbite. "Liu Yong rest of the then said:" Sura them too, and his two top members of the cooperative, they have been shaking down after almost cold above. "They looked really haggard state clearly have lost a lot of very tired appearance, I think they should have a very bad situation. Carefully size of what they found that all of them were Wearing a single layer plastic Huang, Liu Yong is certainly the last climb when wearing climbing shoes too small, even crowded with injured toes freeze, so this option is a loose friction and wear good Huang plastic. In such an adverse environment they can also secure the top down, psychological had to admire them, but also admired a little bit aggrieved, we all clearly a tacit understanding that they This is obviously the first to climb the right people for a climbing, Shaanxi TV also brought a "brave fearless" a director, and before I did not get any Liu Yong again to climb the Great Miao news, I think he has previous experience, a good choice of a more simple lines, some of them more Sura strong Tibetan climbers formed a strong collaborative team, he has not seen the last climbing partner.
Night we arrived and no home, the husband and Equipment shipped back to reach the base camp of the mountain and return to the bullpen, the days have been cloudy, rain always a topical midnight.
August 28: 6:00 am found out I had sunny days, it will be a good weather day. Only about 12 o'clock all arrived home, very tired because of slow back-fu, only two big three back-fu, also an elderly, we must say good husband back three, but the other one is above fetch around Sura Equipment, we embarrassed that these simple Tibetan, he they not easy, but I am anxious psychological, in order to be transported equipment at the last 4,700 meters to the camp, in Cardiff yesterday put the Backpack back position my own back a large bag of the first to the headquarters, repeated three times on get-away backpack, and I back to the old Cardiff large bag back to the base camp, feeling lumbar be broken.
Eaten meal started climbing when 4:00, 7:00 about our Sleeping bags in addition to all the used climbing Equipment from the base camp of 4,200 meters in the last 4,700 meters transported to the camp after the withdrawal of the base, campaigned at a fixed 4 of the bottom line.
August 29: 8:00 started climbing, at around 10:30 to 4,700 campgrounds, the lines not doing that, the more simple to above, in addition to all the rockfall more smoothly and at about 6:30 pm to about 5,000 meters, found with a the fitness camp, but did not carry enough water, always in the thirsty state.
August 30: As early as seven o'clock start climbing, at around 10:30 to find pockets of snow, Liang Hu of the water after 12:00 few more we continue upward from the rope, find a flat place to a Backpack and camping Equipment down, I only had a backpack climb back , speed was a lot faster, in a large cross section of the ridge, come to a peak of the rock wall under the steeple, two over 60 meters from the rope after struggling and I turned on a pile of stones, see above have a red flag in a pile of stones pressure below, a few days ago they left Sura Manidui , I realized that close to a peak, I finally stood in the Peak, shrouded in mist around the Changping see below, but to see the direction of distant ridges left with a hill in the clouds looming ahead surface, I think that should be the real peak, in our line can not always see below to it. When Qiu - xiang, also climbed to about 16:00, we continue to the right along the left side of the ridge to the summit after climbing on ropes from the two finally stand in the Great Miao highest!
We finally completed our line - "freedom escalator"
Technical summary
1, climbing Equipment:
We brought four-justice, facts prove to be more appropriate to the quantity and weight, 8.1 meters long and 60 mm thick rope BEAL dry very useful, efficient and portable, climbing high, if we can re-length 10 meters better. The cone - we spent nearly 20 several very useful, climbing and falling to use half the quantity. First rock climbing and GUIGUI Cypriot basic no, no second band, but an increase of at least manpower. Biandai with a 10, climbing only spent about five, falling all spent. Mechanical Cypriots (BD) around 15, in the common, with several more, tuba and trumpet, occasionally, in fact only 3.5 tuba and No. 4 to 2. Fast pegged around 16 plus several 20-lock, thrown on the decline with basic protection at the station. Glasses must take. Climbing shoes to climb the rock wall with specialized, they can wear into the mountain with the size of thick socks. Wear at least from the Pan, Pan can directly with the climbers wear shoes, no protection to the attention of the circumstances, very slippery climbing shoes, if the dual-use mountain climbing much better.
2, camping Equipment and food
To take the lightest thinnest foam pad Dampproof need waterproof bag camping, the lighter the better, before loading packets directly to the camping down Sleeping bags stuffed into bags filled with compressed bag again, it will not only convenient to use, even leakage of your Backpack, sleeping bags would get wet. To take a stove and cylinders, POWERBAR when we go out with a 30 per person, each climbing, with only less than 10, because the lack of water and eating, so they were only three less than solid, liquid POWERBAR However each ate about four or five blocks, liquids and quickly but tiring of physical rehabilitation hungry. Other foods in the two days climbing only a pot of boiling a pot of coffee and therapist, a human stem vomited the two bread. I think no matter from the point of view that should be forced to do so in climbing, eating POWERBAR, unrelated to the taste, but closely linked with life, no physical equivalent increase in the possibility of errors, tastes and life which is more important? Water must take another foot, if this season sunny circumstances, I think a person needs at least one day about 0.75 liters of water, if good weather you need at least two days of water, the other in a small mountain snow melt, as long as there will be very few sunny mountain snow, if if you send.
3, clothing
Thermal underwear, underwear rides trousers, and EU is needed, when to put on climbing. More dry socks with a double-double, climbers must resistant shoes, at the same time taken to the rock wall, the clothes in a Backpack to put waterproof bags, if bad weather to take Down hats and gloves, these are the protection of life, and not take too Shen luck mentality.
4, intercom is essential, bare between the base camp and timely contact between all OK.
5, falling mostly Biandai can increase block, if not sure, do not fall in the straight wall, unless you brought enough rock cone drill, and pegged against a film, this time, we spent almost drill.
6, no matter what, rope, her loss to be down, unless there is no alternative method must not cut rope, which is we made a mistake, then we fall caused trouble, as the only outstanding forget a rope and rope length judgment error, I was almost out accident.
7, do not climb the two teams at the same time, very dangerous, if 5,000 meters above the broken stones down there will be a series of Rolling Stone effect.
8, do not forget to pray God bless!
Lines and related information
Accommodation: the best live Sansao home, the 10,000-Mei Yang Sansao eldest sister is Great Miao foot of the pastoralists, her husband and his brother is our guide can take you directly to the base camp.
Cost: Sansao home boarding 30 yuan / day tickets 70 / people that live in a good bullpen, replacing resources costs. Lamasi rental van to 20 yuan. If Horse Lamasi from 120 yuan / person, allowing Yang Huijun prior arrangement, they can ride a horse bottom of the Great Miao nuipengzi. Back husband 100 yuan / day (a good time for the day can go home). Back home guards Cardiff 50 yuan / person.
Line: We climb the mountain ridges south wall to the southwest, the base camp located in the south wall of grassland, from the bullpen to go to the base camp of relatively steep paragraphs grassland, it is dangerous and requires guides lead the way, a water line in a trench the start, this is the most difficult two whole, about 5.9-5.10A around. They crawl Sura of the southwest ridge, from 4,600 meters Just south wall of snow pots back to the platform after our lines, the difficulty Rumors about is the Blue Sheep uphill lines, we found that there are 5,000 meters above blue sheep droppings.
Purely on the Viewpoints
1, Liu Yong climb on the first line and we have not fixed the problem, the question is: first he did not punctual in our two championships in the late evening after a home and not rushed, my mind is the composition of a team, if he rushed likely first we were on top, not the top and I Qiu - xiang, but I and Liu Yong. They are not aware that we are second in the line above climbing, they climbed up to the level of risk.
Two, take a hitch-hiker, after climbing again when Liu Yong did not give us a call, I think we even upset, it would not be agreed to. Even in climbing circles have an unwritten rule that is open and not open lines of the line said. Although they outrun us of the difficult road, but alignments and the previous paragraph is exactly the same, we left behind in the last part of the block has been removed.
Three, I think this season of any person to climb the Great Miao are not wrong, they have the same Sura, and Liu Yong one, but also with the Shaanxi Television "Heroes fearless" to a director, notably for the first Pan right for the people here. In fact, I cross the psychological grievances is for this, who do not care about fame? However, the total take else! Another point of the unknown Liu Yong is the first climbing partner why not? Perhaps something not know.
4, Sura they indeed strong, I really admire their strength, if we encountered the same bad situation certainly waited long ago removed, they said yes in bad weather and darkness at the top board, then forward, we found that there are two ropes from the peak distance away, if I they did not see the hills opposite, we will think there is the peak to peak because of the ridges along the left side after the first climb to continue. Sura was seen in the top photo online publication, found that the peak after peak remains clear, I do not know that they may not climb the last section, also a favor to us or they were really no attention, probably more than I consider! When they found photographs of the suspicious points, should at least give us a phone call to determine after posting no later than the top.
5, the above is only my views on some things right, I think a lot of things can be completely resolved on the telephone several, often engage in the complex! The world is a rock-you have it! Why do not we friends?
